Laminate vs. vinyl plank: how the material list differs
By Michał Białas · Last updated
Both float on the subfloor and are sold in boxes of planks, so the plank count works the same way. The differences are in what goes under and around them: vinyl needs a thinner, denser underlayment and a flatter subfloor, laminate needs a wider expansion gap and keeps away from standing water, and glue-down vinyl swaps the underlayment for adhesive.
The plank count is the same calculation
For both products: floor area ÷ area of one plank = planks needed, plus a waste allowance for cuts at the walls and row ends, rounded up to whole boxes. Straight layouts need about 7% extra because the offcut from one row usually starts the next one. Diagonal layouts need about 12% and herringbone about 15%.
Example 1 (feet): 15 × 12 ft room, straight, 7% waste
- Laminate 47 1/4 × 7 1/2 in, 8 per box: 180 sq ft ÷ 2.46 sq ft = 73.1 planks; × 1.07 = 78.3 → 10 boxes (80 planks).
- Click vinyl 48 × 7 in, 10 per box: 180 sq ft ÷ 2.33 sq ft = 77.1 planks; × 1.07 = 82.5 → 9 boxes (90 planks).
- Same room, one box apart, because the boxes hold a different number of planks.
Example 2 (meters): 5.0 × 3.6 m room, straight, 7% waste
- Laminate 1380 × 193 mm, 8 per pack: 18 m² ÷ 0.266 m² = 67.6 planks; × 1.07 = 72.3 → 10 packs (80 planks, 21.31 m²).
- Click vinyl 1220 × 180 mm, 10 per pack: 18 m² ÷ 0.220 m² = 82.0 planks; × 1.07 = 87.7 → 9 packs (90 planks, 19.76 m²).
Side-by-side material list
| Item | Laminate | Click vinyl (LVP/SPC) | Glue-down vinyl |
|---|---|---|---|
| Underlayment | Foam, felt, cork, fiber board; about 2–3 mm | Thin, dense, vinyl-rated; about 1–1.5 mm | None |
| Attached pad | Common; then no separate underlayment | Common on SPC | Not applicable |
| Vapor barrier on concrete | Yes, unless built into the underlayment | Yes, unless built in | No (adhesive bonds to the slab) |
| Expansion gap | About 3/8 in (10 mm) | About 3/16–1/4 in (5 mm) | Very small or none |
| Adhesive | None | None | About 0.35 kg/m² (0.07 lb/sq ft) |
| Subfloor flatness | Moderate | Strict | Strictest |
| Water in wet rooms | Avoid unless rated waterproof | Good | Good |
Values are typical. Each product’s installation guide sets its own gap, flatness requirement and underlayment rules, and following them is usually a condition of the warranty.
Underlayment and vapor barrier
Underlayment is figured as the floor area plus 5% and rounded to whole rolls or packs. Thick, soft foam that works under laminate can damage the click joints of vinyl, because vinyl planks flex more and the joint carries the load. That is why the calculator only offers thin, dense underlayment for click vinyl. The underlayment guide compares the types.
Over concrete or screed, a polyethylene vapor barrier protects the floor from moisture coming up. It needs about 8 in (200 mm) overlaps and turns up the walls about 2 in (50 mm), so the calculator adds 15% to the area and adds seam tape. If the underlayment has a built-in vapor barrier, the separate sheet drops off the list.
In the 15 × 12 ft example, both floors get 189 sq ft of underlayment (two 100 sq ft rolls), 207 sq ft of vapor barrier (one 250 sq ft roll) and one roll of seam tape. In the metric example, 18.9 m² of underlayment is two 10 m² rolls and 20.7 m² of barrier is two 20 m² rolls.
Subfloor preparation
Vinyl is thinner and more flexible than laminate, so every bump, ridge and dip underneath shows through, and gaps under click joints can make them break. Rigid-core SPC tolerates more than flexible LVT, and glue-down vinyl tolerates the least. If you are laying vinyl over a sand-cement screed, the full calculator recommends a thin layer of self-leveling compound and adds it with its primer. How to check if a floor is level explains how to measure what you have.
Trim is the same
Both floors need the expansion gap covered with baseboard or quarter-round, and a transition strip at every doorway. The calculator figures baseboard as the perimeter minus door widths plus 10% for miter cuts. In the 15 × 12 ft room with one 32 in door, that is 8 pieces of 8 ft baseboard and one 3 ft transition strip for either floor. See baseboards, corners and transition strips for corners and end caps.
Choosing between them
- Kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms and basements: vinyl, because it handles standing water better.
- Bedrooms and living rooms over a decent subfloor: either; laminate often feels firmer and resists scratches well.
- Uneven subfloor you don’t want to level: laminate over a forgiving underlayment, or rigid SPC — not flexible or glue-down vinyl.
- Radiant floor heating: both are possible with a low-resistance underlayment; check the product limits.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use laminate underlayment under vinyl plank?
Usually not. Soft foam lets vinyl planks flex at the joints, and many vinyl makers void the warranty if you use it. Use a thin, dense underlayment rated for vinyl, or none if the planks have a pad attached.
Do I need a vapor barrier under vinyl on concrete?
For floating vinyl, usually yes, unless the underlayment or attached pad includes one. Glue-down vinyl is bonded to the slab and doesn’t use a separate barrier, but the slab must be dry enough for the adhesive.
Which needs more waste, laminate or vinyl?
About the same for the same layout: roughly 7% straight, 12% diagonal and 15% herringbone. Box size makes more difference than the material.
How big an expansion gap does vinyl need?
Typically about 3/16–1/4 in (5 mm) at every wall and fixed object, less than laminate. Large rooms and sunrooms may need more; follow the installation guide.